Monday, June 27, 2022

Running in Saint-Tropez: road to the West, trail to the East

If you are visiting the famous Saint-Tropez and want to escape the jet set flavor around the harbor (assuming you didn't come for that exact purpose, that is... ;-) ), you can run or walk along the littoral with two main options: bike road asphalt to the west toward Port Grimaud and Cogolin (3 miles/5K) then 15 more miles toward Sainte-Maxime on the other side of the Gulf of Saint-Tropez, as I've done 2 days later, or on a trail for many miles. Well, for the latter, I haven't done it as I had just landed that Wednesday afternoon and had to work that night, I just ran the first mile and my local hosts told me I could have gone on for many more, along many small and big beaches: des Canoubiers, de la Moutte, des Salins, Tahiti, de Pampelonne, de Camarat, de la Quessinne, de l'Escalet --see my next post, du Cap Taillat, de l'Amour, de la Douane, Rang, de Briande, du Cap Lardier, du Brouis, de Joyat, de Gigaro, d'Héraclée, de Sylvabelle, du Débarquement et de Cavalaire-sur-Mer (and the list goes on toward Toulon then Marseilles!). If that looks like a long enumeration, some beaches are small and remote and keep in mind that this area is under so much pressure from tourists during the summer months.

Here are two Relive videos highlighting both directions although, again, mostly the road option. Both itineraries starting from the harbor of Les Marines de Cogolin where I was staying (click on these links or the snap shots below: Saint-Tropez, Sainte-Maxime)


Both provide amazing and diverse views of the Gulf or surrounding capes. Of course, on the road side (Sainte-Maxime), you'll encounter many bikes, especially during the summer months (wasn't too bad mid June). But at least the bike path is mostly protected and separated from the heavy car traffic. As a matter of fact, the car traffic is so bad during the day, you may well pass many cars on the way (I certainly did!).

As for some logistical matters:

  1. Fuel: for water, drinks and food, you'll have to stop to beach restaurants and ask. I didn't stop any drinking fountain during my runs, except for the public shower in Sainte-Maxime (which I filled my bottles with). I have to say that I drank more than usual in that heat yet, got so thirsty throughout the evening. I recommend carrying at least a couple of hand bottles for a long run.
  2. Pit stops: there are a few public restrooms here and there on beaches but they were all closed mid June, oops! I assume the season starts with July. Wondering if it ends at the end of August or September. Quite disappointing...
  3. Shade: some on the way to Sainte-Maxime in particular but not much overall, be aware of the heat and sun, they can be brutal. As well as the wind from time to time. I did burn my lips!

These were easy to find flat courses, I'm sure there are quite a few hilly ones going into the nearby hills and mountains. If you have good tips, let us know in the comments section below, thank you in advance!

A few pictures from the trail section, West and South of Saint-Tropez:


The end of the trail along the water, only 1 mile from Saint-Tropez! I assume the board walk will be rebuilt when the current private house construction work will be finalized.

Saint-Tropez from above. It looks so small and quiet of a Provencal village, it's hard to imagine all the jet set hype from that angle, isn't it?
La Citadelle:
One of the small streets (Rue Gambetta):
The main plaza, the perfect stadium for some pétanque games (Place des Lices):
Bumper to bumper at rush hours from Saint-Tropez to Sainte-Maxime:
Bernard Arnault's high end restaurant and hotel, le Cheval Blanc:

And now on the Sainte-Maxime side, the bike path starting at Port Grimaud:


View of Saint-Tropez on the other side of the gulf:

View back to the bottom of the gulf, toward Port Grimaud and Cogolin, from Pointe des Sardinaux:
Plage des Eléphants, on the other end of Sainte-Maxime:
A vestige of the landing of American and English troops to liberate Provence from the German occupation in 1944 (August-September, Operation Dragoon):

Short of finding any water fountain, I refilled my bottle at this public shower in Sainte-Maxime:
Back to Port Grimaud:


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