Monday, May 5, 2008

Miwok 08: tougher, faster

Miwok. A strange name which has its roots in the Native American culture. The name of the people who were living in North California and were speaking the Miwokan languages. The name of a trail in the Marin Headlands. A legendary name in the ultra community, at least in the US and on the West Coast. And, with fame comes issues getting in nowadays, with too many candidates for too few spots, even if we were more than 300 starters this year. As you might recall from one my of January posts, it took a lot of planning and "cyber celerity" to get into the 2008 editions. Rumors circulate that Miwok is going to turn to a lottery system next year. The same year as Western States will change its lottery rules to address the overwhelming demand and limitations of the lottery system itself, challenge by the increasing number of the two-time losers (up to now, the ones who did not get pick from the hat two years were automatically in the third year, upon still meeting qualifying standards then).

Miwok. A hilly and challenging 100K, in an incredibly nice and protected area, the Marin Headlands, a National Recreational Area just a few miles North of San Francisco and part of the Golden Gate biosphere, created by UNESCO. A tough course which leads some to call it "me, walk" as even some downhills are tough to run. Mathematically the distance of 2.4 marathons, but much more with almost +/- 10,000 feet of elevation.

My first Miwok turned to a bad experience because of asthma kicking in before the first 20 miles, and a lot of walking to get over all the uphills, ending up in a disappointing (for me) 10:53 time. With all the walking, and despite the incredible boost I got from Bob (Evans) who paced me in 2007, I had not only good hope to improve this year but put a great time, shooting for around 9:15.

The day started really early, waking up at 2:30 to get some breakfast and drive to Palo Alto to Craig's place. Craig is a member of our mid-Peninsula Saturday morning ultra running group and his sister, Lisa, was volunteering at Pan Toll. Other members of this car pool crew were Mike (also working at SRI with Craig) and Charles, whom we picked on the way, in San Francisco (Mike, Charles, Craig and I, photo credit Craig/Lisa Heinselman).
With 4 runners on board and a volunteer, we received the VIP treatment and were able to park next to the drop bag areas and 10 yards from the registration table. At 4:20 am we were among the first runners to check in and the opportunity to talk to Stan (Jensen) and Tia (Bodington) before the rush. A rush which actually happened later this year because of the new parking rule and the checkpoint sorting out vehicles and routing non car poolers to a remote parking. This delay got us to start just before 6 am instead of 5:45, giving us daylight for the sandy leg on the beach.

Chatted with Scott Jurek walking to the starting line, telling him I had put my (virtual) money on him on Karl (Meltzer)'s betting blog post. And introduced to him Eric, another Brooks ID'er, whom I'd met at American River. Stood at the starting line next to Hal Korner, last year Western States winner, and Bev (Abbs-Anderson) and Kami (Semick) the two favorites on the gals side (with Devon not making it from the waiting to the final entrants list).

I was resolute to start slow this time, to preserve my lungs in this cool and early morning. In the first hill, I caught-up with Mark (Tanaka) who was telling Kami all about his issue getting to the start line because of a Southbound-101 detour. I'm always amazed how Mark can keep talking while going uphill. On my side, I was not really up getting on the conversation, to save my lungs. Quickly we reached Bev and Mark seemed to entertain both of them now. On my side, I passed Simon (Mtuy) who had an issue with his shoe. Simon just arrived from Tanzania 2 days ago, for two months of ultra racing in the area, culminating with Western States. He passed me around mile 30 last year when I was struggling, and I thought I'd better not pass him too early this year, yet he was walking with one shoe so I went on. Got into Mark (Lantz) and Erik (Skaden). I was actually surprised to see Mark today because I had not seen him neither on the entrants nor the waiting list. He said he got in only on Thursday so had not properly tapered and was just running Miwok as a training run. See below for what it means and, if it was part of a tactic to impress me, it very much worked. Erik said that if I was going to pass him today, I had better to stay ahead all the way today. Erik is so strong, especially the longer the distance is, the only times I passed him were at Way Too Cool this year and Headlands 50K last year, both times where he had a bad day. Anyway, I made sure not to pass Mark and Erik except that, on the first downhill, Mark went ahead and Erik said he could not run that fast so I stayed between the tandem. As we left the section with a great view over the Golden Gate and San Francisco (photo credit: Craig), Rajeev was posted to lead us back onto the trail. The top 5 runners were already out of sight at this point.


Intelligently, Mark slowed down in the second hill after the Bunker Road aid station where we did not stop still having enough fluid in our bottles, just enough time to see DirtDiva from the Runner's World trail forum. I had memories of walking that second hill last year, yet did not feel the need this year. On the other side, on our way down to Tennessee Valley (horse stables), I caught up and actually passed Jon (Olsen) and Topher (Gaylor). Leaving the second aid station, I was actually confused between the Miwok and Headlands 50K courses and headed on the right, thankfully corrected by the volunteers who had to yell "left!" several times before I switched direction, with Jon on my heels.

Last year, I ran and walked the third uphill with Bev, Kami and Nikki (Kimball), who were chatting all the way. This year I almost did not walk and started thinking that I was maybe going too fast when I saw Scott (Jurek) not far ahead. By precaution, I walked the sections he was walking... By mile 14 I was about 50" behind him, with Jon, Topher, Ed, Mark, Mark a few turns behind. (Coastal photo, courtesy of Craig.)

Last saw Scott before aid station #3 (Muir Beach) where, among others, Chuck (Wilson) cheered me up. Jon caught me before Deer Park fire road hill in a nice flat section and we ran part of Deer Park together before Topher joined us. Jon told me: "we are on a 8:30 pace (*), make sure to keep some energy for the turnaround," and to Topher: "Nice gear" and they both left me in the dust. For sure, Jon was right, yet I wonder how much did his remark affected my mental, as I started focusing on bad thoughts such as "did I indeed start too fast," "will I hit the wall," "when/where?" Really not good thoughts for such a long ultra and more than 35 miles to go... Erik also passed me before the top.


Reached Pan Toll (mile 21.7) in good shape although I would have taken fresh calves if it was possible, a bit worried to feel some leg fatigue that "early" in the race. Was welcomed by Roger (Dellor) and all the volunteers pressed me to leave (Roger's picture, from Robin's album). I was a bit anxious with the coming "nice" section. It is one of the most beautiful parts of the run, with a trail rolling along the ridge, through grassy slopes and wonderful views of the Ocean and the coast. But this is the section where I broke down last year. A ran all this section without seeing any other runner and was relieved to get to Bolinas Ridge without any breathing problem. Got welcomed by very nice volunteers who knew me and told me I was on a 8:40 (*) pace. I replied that this was based on a big assumption that I could keep up with the current pace... I left after getting a bit scared learning that the next section to the turn around was another 7 miles. A section which very much seemed to me like a roller coaster last year, a series of short up and down hills and the famous chute to the turnaround aid station (which you have to then climb back). The only good news being that the turnaround is actually not at midpoint but 35.6 miles.

Was welcomed at Randall Trail by Winnie and Lee (Jebian) and Chuck again. As I left the station, I saw Kami and "the two Marks" (Lantz and Tanaka) coming down, flying on me like flies. I was not feeling too well, actually OK physically but not so well mentally. I jogged/walked the steep uphill and got passed by 4 runners including Kami, just as we reached the gate and managed to stay close to this small group whom I called in my mind "the train" for another mile or so before letting them go. As a matter of fact, I didn't even noticed Mark (Lantz) in this group and only found out when I reached the finish, 30 minutes after him!

Meanwhile, it was a pleasure to get smiles and encouragements from all the runners we were crossing on our way back, that really meant a lot. Craig took a picture of me in this section:

I was ashamed to be too breathless to reply to all salutations and encouragements. On the way back to Bolinas, I passed Hal who was walking and asked what happened (he was in 4th position after the turnaround). As I was teasing him to come with me, that I really really needed a pacer, he replied that he had a foot injury and could not push further. I saw Christine (Miller) at my second stop at Bolinas Ridge and, turning back as I was leaving, noticed Mark (Tanaka) coming in. I thought he was going to catch up with me soon, definitely before reaching Pan Toll, 7 miles away. Kept running as much as possible, seeing the orange (La Sportiva) spot from times to times in the background.

Finally reached Pan Toll, still in 13th position and was really happy to see Agnès and Greg, as planned the night before. Agnès helped me refill my last of 4 lemon Gu2O loads, Robin (Mills) was covering the event with his camera, Roger asked me how I was going and Chris (Garcia) teased me has we were leaving the aid station together, him on a training run to the Tennessee Valley aid station where he was going to volunteer for the rest of the day.
I saw an orange runner coming in Pan Toll as I was leaving. However it was not Mark (Tanaka) but Bev (in other words, not La Sportiva, but Sunsweet, sponsor-wise). This gave me some hope to hold on for one more station... Here is Mark at Pan Toll, 3 minutes behind Bev and I, apparently preparing for some "Vaseline operation" (Mark is an Emergency Room surgeon...):
The way from Pan Toll to Highway 1 crossing is a long down hill (Deer Park) followed by a tortuous uphill through a lot of vegetation including poison oak which got 8 inches of my arm skin last year. I was still seeing Bev behind but maintaining the gap. Was relieved to get to the Highway 1 crossing aid station where a volunteer recognized me and noticed that I was much better than in 2007 (I was amazed that I left such memories behind me last year!). Got encouraged by learning the finish was only 7 miles away, although I knew there were two big hills in the way. My Garmin 205 was indicating 53 miles, not sure where I had missed the 2 miles to make the total to 62 miles. Needless to say, I was not asking for two more miles!

I jogged most of the 2-mile up-hill, yet I had trouble accelerating on the long down-hill to Tennessee Valley, fearing cramps which I could feel were just ready to trigger any time. I must have lost quite some time to Bev on this down hill, because she was almost on me after Tennessee. That gave me the last kick to get over the last long hill (Wolfe Ridge). It felt really good to see the beach, Rodeo Lagoon and the finish line although the last hundreds yards have some short painful, tricky, rocky and slippery trails and stairs. My legs had really enough of this, I was happy finishing 13th, although not so happy to miss my 9:15 goal. Yes, for sure, I had started too fast for that anyway. Happy to see Agnès and Greg, and many other familiar faces at the finish (photo: Robin).
Felt a bit stupid about my race strategy with some comments Erik and Mark (Lantz) made about my pacing strategy (or lack thereof), but I will survive the embarrassment, and will try learning from it.

A thank you to Bev for keeping a healthy pressure behind me, her orange jersey which I mistaken for Mark's one...

With Race Director Tia Bodington and Bev.
Overall, with 9:41, this is a PR on my 2nd 100K and 2nd Miwok and I was thrilled to finish 13th overall and 3rd of the masters division; yet, with such competition and pushing all the way, I don't remember any other race as hard as this one for me. That put even more perspective on the feat of the top performers of the day, with an amazing course record set by David Mackey, under 8 hours (7:53, wow!), 30 minutes ahead of Jon, who took second (below, Jon running through Pan Toll, with his crew and pacer).

Virtual pacer and virtual crew

There were so many people knowing my name along the course that I felt like having a virtual crew, something which was really unexpected. It felt good and I thank each of you although I can't name you all. And a big thank you to all the other volunteers, your service was top class and outstanding!

In addition, and although I didn't ask for his permission, I used Rob (Evans) as my virtual pacer on my way back to Bolinas Ridge (the aid station where pacers are authorized, something which really makes a difference and that Jon leveraged appropriately). Reminding myself of all the positive encouragements he had given me in 2007 as I was struggling on this course, thinking of what he would advise me to take/grab at the aid station, pushing me to keep running the uphills, maintaining a gentle but steady and competitive pressure. Rob was on the entrant list this year but has not recovered from his injury at Way Too Cool in March. Rob, thank you again for such an inspiration! Please recover quickly so we can see you and Kate on the trails again.


A new old kid in town

With the shame of showing that I'm still very new to ultra running, after only two years of competition, I will admit that I never heard of David Mackey before seeing he was the favorite on Karl's blog. A quick search on (Peter) Zinsli's website tells quite a story: first at JFK 50, 2 wins at Way Too Cool, one win at Badwater, 2nd place at Western States in 16:30... For sure, in sports, knowledge is key for betting successfully!

Now, the big question raised by Karl is "with this entry, will David run Western States again this year?" With all these late entrants thanks to the Montrail UltraCup, Western States is going to be incredibly competitive this year.

Cascadias

The Cascadias 3 worked beautifully this weekend. It is another course where road shoes can do the job, yet the Cascadias are light enough on the nice runnable sections, and provide good traction on the steep and dusty ones. Good job Brooks!

With that, see you at Ohlone. I'm going to skip Quicksilver first because this is a special family weekend with Mothers' Day and my parents visiting from France, second because I'm running the Human Race in Mountain View with the boys (Max, Alex and Greg), several colleagues from ILOG and a few members of the Tino cross-country and track and field teams (Max and Alex's high school). Yes, only 10K, which will provide some tapering before Ohlone, where I will be the returning champion and happy to leave the title to the strong competition lining up again this year. Missing Quicksilver again this year, so long for the Grand Prix points, have fun without me, guys!

Farther, Faster and... Tougher!

PS: as a bonus, here is a great shot from Robin, of Agnès not showing the stress of her C.R.E.W. (adopted) definition... Cranky Runner, Endless Waiting...

(*) not minute/mile, but a 8 hours 30 minute Miwok!

Friday, April 25, 2008

Appalachian Trail: a mega sustainability sensor

It was Earth Day on Tuesday this week, the perfect occasion to celebrate one of the natural wonders of the US, the Appalachian Trail.

I was giving a talk at Informs Practice, an Operations Research conference, in Baltimore, Maryland, last week. The boys were off for Spring break so the whole family made the trip to Washington, D.C., a rare occasion to combine a family and business trip.

I myself took Wednesday off and we headed to West Virginia, a state which we had not visited yet. More precisely to Harpers Ferry, the headquarters of the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC).

I have several connections with ATC and the trail. The first and strongest, Steve Paradis, one of our best friends, who is the Chief Operating Office of ATC and lives in Harpers Ferry. Agnès had known the Paradis family in Andover, Massachusetts, for a long time, from students exchanges when she was a teen, and I got introduced to them shortly after meeting Agnès, in 1989. Here is a short biography of Steve from the ATC website:

Steve Paradis, Chief Operating Officer: Steve’s involvement with the A.T. dates back to a southbound thru-hike he completed over the winter of 92-93. Since then, he has volunteered as a corridor monitor and is currently the monitor coordinator for the Dartmouth Outing Club. He served on the ATC Board of Managers, Finance Committee, and Stewardship Council. He served briefly as an officer on the ALDHA board.

Coming to ATC from industry, Steve has held positions in R&D and product development in the paper industry as well as in production and global manufacturing operations with Hewlett-Packard. He earned his B.S. and M.S. in Mechanical Engineering from M.I.T. and holds an M.B.A. from Stanford University.

Steve has hiked-through the AT and brings a very attractive mix of hiker and industry experience and expertise to the ATC. Knowing Steve so well, it is hard for me to imagine a better officer to lead the 50 staff of ATC and the associated network of 30 clubs, themselves federating the 6,000 volunteers maintaining the Appalachian Trail. Lucky ATC!

Another connection is through Flyin' Brian Robinson who was the first person to hike the three cross-US scenic trails within the same year (Appalachian Trail, Pacific Crest Trail, Continental Divide Trail). A feat called Triple Crown, which Brian topped this year by completing and winning the Barkley 100-mile, while setting a course record, at the beginning of the month. Brian was used to live in the Bay Area and I learned a lot from running the hills with him. If you recall my account of my first Western States, we ran the first 32 miles together last year. I rarely see Brian now that he moved to Monterey, but will see him again on the Western States course in two months.

Third, I heard again about AT when Steve asked me what I thought of Karl Meltzer's project to set a new speed record on AT this summer. ATC is a bit concerned with the buzz around this attempt. As Karl is one of my ultra heroes, whom I still have to meet on the trails (see my 2008 wishes), I tried to reassure Steve of Karl's best and positive intentions and genuine interest in trail protection and promotion through our sport.

Last, the trail gets to Georgia in the South, the State of Atlanta, where Dave leaves, one my most diligent readers, and one of my connections with the trail and ultra running community on the East Coast. Dave is a proud member of GUTS, the Georgia Ultrarunning and Trailrunning Society, which I'm sure makes good use of the Appalachian Trail.

The Appalachian Trail

The AT doesn't yet cross all the US (at least the official one, because some claim a longer international version). It goes from Georgia in the South, to Maine in New England. With a length of 2,175 miles it is the longest marked trail in the US and it crosses 14 states overall and 8 National Forests. It took many years to connect all the segments and was established by Congress in 1968, 47 years after Benton MacKaye's original idea in 1921. Although a unit of the National Park Service, its maintenance relies on 30 local clubs and associations gathering 6,000 volunteers along the trail. This amazing work and countless hours are orchestrated by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, which received a formal delegation from the National Park Service to maintain and protect the trail.
I only ran 23 miles this time, that is about 1% of the trail. Needless to say, I have not seen much of it. In addition, the weather was perfect: pure blue sky, nice temperature with a light breeze and the trail was in perfect condition, having dried up from the winter season. Yet, there was some sections with a lot of dead leaves and tricky rocks making the run more tiring than what expected, and representing more work than I should have put in 3 days before Ruth Anderson 100K (or 50K...).


Steve is showing me the marking of the trail: 1 white stripe = keep going straight; 2 s announce a turn, with direction to be read bottom-up. Blue stripes indicate an access trail (a trail getting hikers to or off the trail, about 160 miles of them).
I started my run from Route 40, with this bridge crossing Highway 70, and going South toward Harpers Ferry.
And, not carrying a camera, here am I, 23 miles later, getting close to Harpers Ferry where I met Steve and the family along the canal, the only flat section of the day.
During these 3 hours, I saw less than 10 people, a few through-hikers with huge backpacks and half a dozen local hikers. Note that, according to Steve, I had run a part of the course of the famous JFK 50-mile, although I can't find a confirmation on the website. I'll surely be back to run more of the AT, and maybe this mythical race on the East Coast. The largest ultra event in the US, with more than 1,000 finishers last year, yet, quite a smaller field than the SaintéLyon I ran last December, in France, with 8,000 participants (including more than 2,500 on the complete 42-miler, a race starting at midnight on a muddy course and freezing temperatures...).


After a shower and getting the boys and Steve for a canoe tour on the Shenandoah River, I went back to the AT Conservancy headquarters for a visit and the traditional picture that most of the hikers get in front of the building and plaque:
Inside, there is a room that many AT hikers will recognize: "their" room, with a couch for some rest, pictures and maps following the progress of some hikers and volunteers on the trail, a box of lost-and-founds in which hikers can either leave surplus or get some missing stuff, several artifacts illustrating the trail history and a computer to send and check emails. I takes about 5 millions steps to hike the whole trail and this comfortable and well equipped halt is definitely worth to get re-energized along the way!

The MEGA-Transect initiative
Now that you know more about the trail, let's get to the title of this post. As you can see on the above picture, the AT, in red, has a very sizable dimension compared to the size of the North American continent. With 250,000 acres of protected land, and 2,000 occurrences of rare, threatened, endangered, and sensitive plant and animal species, the AT represent a unique and huge living laboratory and a excellent opportunity to monitor the effect of global warming in particular. In that sense, it represents a mega sensor for our sustainable (or non sustainable...) development.

The picture is actually a copy of the cover of a very interesting report presenting this global initiative.

How mega is this sensor? I'm not very good with square yards, this is really not metric at all... So here are the detailed maths to give you an idea:
  1. According to the NFL, a football field is 120 by 53 1/3 yards = 6,400 square yards
  2. One acre = 4,840 square yards
  3. 250,000 x 4,840 / 6,400 = 189,062
A surface equivalent to 190,000 football fields, how mega is this? Many more fields than in the whole United States for sure.

The MEGA-Transect project aims at three goals:
  1. Monitor – Collect and analyze new and existing data on key indicators of environmental health from agencies, organizations, researchers, and citizen scientists.
  2. Understand – Transform data into status reports and track trends through analysis, synthesis, and modeling.
  3. Inform and Engage – Inform and engage the American public, decision-makers and stakeholder organizations to manage and protect the A.T. environment, attain the goals of existing natural resources and environmental legislation, and to make sound decisions for positive change.
Like for the maintenance of the trail, it relies on the volunteers for many of its related actions. Steve confessed that an interesting challenge was to have the scientific and volunteers collaborate into this program, with of course very different backgrounds and even motivations. To me, a very significant program illustrating the challenges and opportunities related to sustainability (or sustainable development), a theme we are promoting within SiliconFrench, our local Francophone networking association, in Silicon Valley.

Here are some of the captivating facets of the MEGA-Transect project highlighted in the report:
  1. Citizen Science
  2. Forest Health
  3. Invasive Plants
  4. Rare, Threatened and Endangered Species
  5. Mountain Birds
  6. Seasonal Life Cycles
  7. Landscapes
  8. Water
  9. Air Quality
  10. Visitor Impacts
As you can see from this list, all key topics for the future of our planet, and our existence. Long life to this program and a mega thank you to all the volunteers involved in this Citizen Science! Also an example to follow for us, on the West Coast, with the Pacific Crest Trail...

Farther and faster, the sustainable way...