I'll come back to the other facets of this event, with praise, but I want to start with what blew my mind the most from this first experience up there, the course. I'm not going to attempt to find enough words to describe every section, what stroke me is that it brought back a taste of almost all the course I've raced on in California. Quite timely as I just celebrated my 200th ultra finish at Dick Collins Firetrails 50 (mile), 3 weeks ago. I only wished I had carried Chuck Wilson on a drone above me to take note of all the species of plants and trees.
From one creek to another, many dry but a few still running, we were switching from oaks to fir trees, leafy trees whose leaves had turned yellow to redwoods, then segments with almost no trees but dry bushes and grass and, of course, countless views of the lake. It has been a long time since I ate so much narrow single track in one race. And, apart from a few yards and washed out creek crossings, the trail was in such great condition, it almost looked manicured and swept at times.
Around the Wulfaw (water only) aid station, I felt like back on my favorite Ohlone course (and favorite race with 6 overall wins there). With the single track along the lake, there were many flavors of Rio del Lago 100, American River 50, Cool Moon 100 and Folsom Lake 100 coming back, and Western States of course. It was easier to climb to Lone Rock in the sun when thinking of doing the same on Old Mine Road at Quicksilver 100, or Silver State 50 except the elevation. While a lake is no match to the Pacific Ocean, I mentioned redwoods which brought a taste of Quad Dipsea, Marin Headlands 100, Miwok 100K and even Tamalpa Headlands 50. I can imagine the creeks flowing in the Spring which would give a flavor of Way Too Cool I assume, albeit not in the Fall.
While on the course, I found the marking to be completely insane, I mean insanely prolific, efficient, professional. So many signs, even double ones for the wrong turns/ways. Ribbons so long they were caressing your shoulders going through them. Accents of reflective markers on ribbons and signs, critical for the back of the pack of the 50-mile and all the 100-mile runners going through the night. Painted arrows and cones on the road section. More than 200 run and I've never seen such a course marking craft, top work!
I'll continue with the aid stations. First I loved that they were manned by runners who really knew their craft and were super helpful to attend and assess your needs, providing advice, if not recommendations, as well as prompt service. All that despite handling quite a few runners in both directions. I really like the jumbo size of the watermelon cuts, and even banana, and that they were kept in plastic boxes. I much enjoyed the ice in this hot day and I'm sure I wasn't alone so thank you for having plenty and being generous with it!
With that long preamble, how did my race go? I already broke the scoop about the temperature, it was hot for a mid-October race, the planet is definitely boiling. At least it isn't as depressing here than the two weeks I spent in Chamonix in July, watching the mountain break and melt in real and accelerated time. Yet, it may get even too hot for growing wine safely and profitably, since the area is one of the hearts of wine country. Not to forget about the fires... Wild fires that is. And to fight them, controlled fires. Well, not the best timing before a race, but I get that public land management takes precedence over our sport, I could see a lot of smoke coming out of the hills when driving to Healdsburg on Friday afternoon for bib pickup.
And I found the smell of burnt wood to be quite unbearable while driving to the start on Saturday morning. It was pitch dark, yet you could see the smoke all around. So much that it crossed my mind that the race could get cancelled, that maybe I had missed the memo. Then, later on the course, that it might be realy bad for our lungs, and that became an excuse or good reason not to push to had in the first miles. What surprises me watching pictures and livestream after the race is that it doesn't look as bad as what I felt in the moment so maybe I was just exaggerating in my mind. Yet, the heat was real and I would argue the smoke didn't help either and that may explain that it ended up not being the fastest of the 18 years that 50-mile race has been run.
Driving to the start turned more epic than expected. Thankfully, I had picked my bib on Friday and I had even applied my anti chaffing mixture at the hotel in Rohnert Park, when I usually do this at the start. The start was at 6:30 and driving directions had me to The Ranch by 5:30. With several hundreds, I was worried about the parking situation and space. The route included 15 miles on Dry Creek Road where I was surprised to see... nobody! Driving to the start of Miwok for instance usually gets you in a conga line... After so many miles in the dark, I was relieved to finally see some light at the race headquarters, and one volunteer on the side of the road, whom I asked for a confirmation that The Ranch was higher up. A couple more miles and the directions stated that I had arrived but I couldn't see any light, any one, or hear any noise, so I kept going on. Full of doubts, I stopped at the Marina road, then saw three SUVs coming up full speed so, without much thoughts, followed them on the winding road. After a few miles, I couldn't hold it and, after quite a few flashes of headlights and horn, I managed to get the last car to stop, phew! The driver said there were rushing to the aid station and confirmed I had missed the turn at the Ranch. Dang, so long for a head start, all that got me to the parking lot 20 minutes later than I was hoping, yet, there was still plenty of space. The locals know how to get just in time. To form the first conga line... at the (only two!) porta potties...
I had first seen Skip on his professional video recorded race briefing. This is one benefit of early retirement, I have more time to listen to those, read the booklets, and even drive the day before to get an early bib pickup. While I had found Skip to be quite energetic and engaging in that briefing, the energy he was projecting through the sound system was a whole higher level, what an energized bunny, and it was only the beginning of a long day and weekend!
Almost everybody was carrying a headlamp. I had asked the OG RD, John, if it was needed and he said, unlikely, with the first miles on the road. I'm glad I asked, I decided to leave it in the trunk of my car.
With the smoke, the visibility on the first mile of the single track, going downhill, was limited, that got me to maintain a conservative pace, running just behind Amanda to take advantage of her light. A few runners passed us as she was careful in the downhills, and I passed Amanda and a few others in the first sustained climb, around mile 5, seeing everybody again in the out and back to the Island View aid station, our first descent to water lake level.
Not stopping there, and still running the uphills, I caught up and passed a handful of runners. I recall passing two gals who kept talking while running, this is a whole other sport, I can't do that. Especially with the smoke, I felt that every breath was critically important, hoping there weren't too many particules clogging our lungs. I had formed enough of a gap that I could stop to catch a few pictures of the sun rising over the lake, gorgeous views when we don't thing too much of the smog.
After a few sprints to make up for these stops, I finally settled behind a runner in black, Abel Carrera. That got us getting to the second major aid station together, Warm Springs, at mile 12.4 (clip from the livestream). I had no idea during the race, nor did I care at all, UltraLive.net's splits show me being in 25th overall with 4 gals ahead (in my golden years, I used to be sensitive of being chicked... ;-). We ran together to the next water-only aid station, Wulfow and both stopped to refill. There, when I asked if he knew the course, I learned that it was his first 50-miler, but he said that he had run it.
We were not even at 1/3 of the course. Abel was walking most of the uphills when I was still tempting to jog them, so it helped me with some restrain, on this renowned relentless course. On the 1-mile climb to Liberty Glen (mile 20.8), I learned about Abel's name. I arrived before him and, loading up on ice and having some fun with Skip for our first encounter, I didn't see Abel leave.
I mentioned I had time to study the race instructions. Well, I could remember a dip before the big climb to the turnaround but I had NOT realized we were going all the way down to the lake level again! While going downhill is ok, I could not stop thinking that we will have to climb all that back again... Then I started crossing the lead runners on the way back, about 8 miles ahead, and with no sign of slowing down, wow! I estimated that they were on a pace for slightly more than 7 hours.
After more than a mile of going down, I did caught Abel although I was convinced he was behind at the aid station. Abel was helpful again by sharing a few words about the upcoming big climb and breather on the ridge, which I recalled from looking at the profile. I'm grateful to Abel for sharing his experience of the course. What I didn't know from looking at that profile is that it was all on a fire road, like many Quicksilver miles, which I like, so I did push the pace and was pleased with my power walking for a good change.
Going up, I was keeping a count of who was ahead. I must have missed a few with all the people at that aid station (Lone Rock turnaround), from the various distances including the half marathon and relays, I thought I had made it into the top 20 but the splits have me as 24th overall. It was cool to see everybody on the way down. Refreshed by quite some ice in my hat, ice bandana and arm sleeves, I managed to run most of the ridge back, and passed a runner on the way back up to Liberty Glen. Back again at lake level... with some breeze picking up and starting to clear the smoke up.
Quick stops and opportunities to catch my breath on the way up, to take a selfie with friends AJW (Andy Jones-Wilkins) who, for once, was on the course instead of commenting, and the inspirational Errol Rocket Jones (another unrelated Jones). AJW is known for his 10 Western States finished, including many top10 and one 2nd place, and for his big voice on the ultra scene, including running a column in UltraRunning Magazine as well as a pod cast for 15 years. On the trails, he has slowed down since become bionic (hip)... As for Rocket, he wasn't happy I made him stop on the way down for a picture and I hope that's not the reason he decided to call it a day at Lone Rock...
Retracing our steps meant I wasn't in course discovery mode anymore, but trying to remember every step, backward. And then we were crossing the 100-milers, most of them on their first lap, then the leaders on their second round, much respect to them for running this relentless course twice! Crossing marathon runners two, with a special mention for Charles Savage, the doyen at 78.
I refilled my water bottle at Wulfow and kept moving decently albeit power walking most of the uphills, trying to save some energy for the last 15 miles. My average pace was still below 12 min/mile, or a 10-hour run, but I knew I wasn't going to be able to maintain that average in this heat. After dreaming of breaking 9 hours when watching at times from previous editions, I was fine by missing 10 given the circumstances (smoke, heat, reduced fitness and leg strength after my meniscus tear 2 years ago, running a reasonable sub-4 50K last week, then the age which not always just a number...).
Legs were getting busted but I was still in good spirit and relaxed enough to take pictures.
I closed on Tori Irvin, 28, who got quite some aerial/drone coverage in the livestream as she was still in 3rd place. She was suffering from dizziness though and had to walk the uphills. Here are both of us in that livestream, loading up on ice at Warm Springs.
Here is an elaborated creek crossing setup which tells a story that there may be much more water in the Spring...
Tory Dobins arrived at the aid station as we were leaving. As well as Jeff Reichbach and Dylan Fluet on the men side. Some pressure to keep moving for the last 13 miles... And, although there was literally nothing to win, ranking wise, I don't particularly like pressure from behind, I felt it was going to be a matter of a mile or two for me to get passed. At a few spots, I could see Tory and Jeff not too far behind. Yet, it took about 6 miles for Tory to pass me and she would end up finish 3rd on the women podium. Trying to save her 3rd place, Tori was still managing to move faster than me, staying ahead by a minute or so.
I saw this super cool and super cheap advertising for HRC on my way out in the morning and promised to take a picture going uphill on the way back, here it is, well done local runners!
I made a significant stop at Island View so much that Jeff was getting in when I was leaving. We were at mile 44.4 on my watch. A volunteer told me we had a 10K to go (6 miles) but I could recall reading the course was longer than 51 miles in the briefing. Ah, these watches and technology which get in the way of running by feel... Feel as in pain I should say because I got quite a few of hamstring tightness and cramping episodes in these last 7 miles. I emptied my bottles, took a 10th S!Cap, my 7th GU Energy gel and, my trick, extra breaths of air, border hyper ventilation, a technique which I discovered a few years ago. I caught up with Tori at the top of the road, as she was taking something out of her shoe, sitting on the asphalt. She was still running faster than me so she passed me in the next mile. Still no sign of Jeff behind as I got off the road, on the last stretch of trail to the finish. I couldn't believe we still had so much to cover and, with the downhill switchbacks, cramping became unbearable. I was so much on the brakes thatm sure enough, I finally saw Jeff closing behind as I had stopped at one turn. That kicked my ass, as I told him at the finish, so much that I crossed the finish line mere 19 seconds before him, phew! 10:34:45, 16th overall, 12th in the Men, 4th Masters Men. And, yes, I made my goal of winning my age group, although no trop to materialize it this time. Again, given the circumstances, great outcomes for such a slow time.
Yes, and yet, I can see Gary Gellin rolling his eyes regarding these finish time, him who broke 7 in 2015 then ran 7:05, 7:06 and 7:15 otherwise. Indeed, this can be a fast course for some, Jim Walmsley ran 6:00:52 in 2016 then 5:51:16 (!) in 2018. This year's was called the OG course so it might have changed over the years. And if smoke and heat may be excuses, the winning time this year was 7:10:30, by a kid no less, Charlie Kline, only 18! Much respect for such control and performance without much experience yet.
Anyway, not proud of my time but pleased with not only finishing bot also holding on and gaining a few spots throughout the day.
I was showing so much salt on my shorts and top, I wish I could work on my sweating... The fact is that I drank a lot of water and electrolytes (peed three times so I was hydrated), took one S!Cap an hour, so there wasn't much else I could have done. Except not getting washed out by melted ice since this is what makes the salt visible. I spent quite some time hydrating on a chair near the finish (many free minutes on the live cast! ;-), before moving to the main aid station where Patty and Peter, Jamil Coury's parents took great care of me and putting back on my feet with some soup and coke, before I could drive back home.
After the sun disappeared and sent the 100-mile runners back on the course for a long night, I caught a shuttle up to the parking lot at the Ranch. I was surprised how alert I was on the road and didn't feel the need to make a stop during the 2hr30 ride. I was showered by 10, spent an hour in the Normatec compression boots while watching the livestream before a great 9-hour recovery night. Some soreness in the legs and core, I hesitated going to a recovery run but opted for some rest.
Ultra finish #203, 50-mile #44
As part of the many sponsors to be grateful for as they made this event possible I want to highlight a one with a cool connection to two distinct friends from Voiron, France, with this running sock brand based there and manufacturing in Portugal. Go Voiron, go Sidas, allez, allez, allez!
Special thanks also to Aravaipa not only for elevating this event through their ownership but also for inviting me to run it, after I ran Jackpot in February. I would admit that I would have not had planned squeezing Lake Sonoma in my busy running schedule otherwise and, now that I know the course, I would have felt very sorry for... skipping it. Definitely a Fall Classic in its 18th year, highly recommended!
PS: for my own and family records, the clips I appear in in these long livecasts:
- One second flying by the camera at the start (literally less than one second, check the blue top! ;-)
- Two minutes at Warm Springs #1
- Warm Springs #2
- Finish and 20 minutes hydrating in a chair... (I didn't realized it was in the camera's field of view! ;-) )
- Picture at the finish
Additional bonus and another perk of early retirement, more time to reconnect with friends on the way up to the race on Friday morning. Lunch with Victor and Jena in San Rafael.
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