Friday, April 5, 2019

Running in Oceania: Tahiti, Papeete to Point Venus

Hi from Tahiti, the first island we visited this week out of the 118 which form the French Polynesia. Volcanic formations scattered over 1,200 miles (2,000 kilometers)!
French Polynesia is part of Oceania, so many islands that it is worth showing a map. From California, it's actually quite accessible with several direct flights from San Francisco (United and FrenchBee) or Los Angeles. Actually, its a French Territory which is really far from mainland and French tourists have to make a stop in California.
Tahiti is the main island and home to the international airport. From there you can fly to other islands on Air Tahiti, take a ferry to the close by Moorea, or hop on a cruise.

We stayed for one night in Papeete and I took the opportunity to run 25K on Sunday morning. Best time to run is early in the morning. While the temperature is still in the 90s F (more than 30C), at least you avoid the burning sun if you run before 9 am, preferably starting at dawn, around 6 am.
There are magnificent mountains on Tahiti, culminating at 7,352 ft (2,241 m). While this is tempting from a trail running standpoint, it is so humid that the island is covered with a rain forest so dense that most excursions require a guide. With that, I didn't pick a very original route, just staying on the littoral on Route 2. At least that removes the chance to get lost!
Here is a 1-minute fly over summarizing my round trip to Point Venus, a very special historical place: in 1769, James Cook came to that place to observe the transit of Venus, an event which occurs every 105 to 121 years (see more details in this blog post, or that Wikipedia page).
And a few more pictures, good for another virtual visit, although, from your couch, you will miss the sweat from running in burning temperature and high humidity. Hope you will still consider visiting Tahiti, a taste of France (the language, the signs, the cars) complemented with very friendly and welcoming people (a big change from Metropolitan France...), a layback culture (it helps that France is covering 92% of the French Polynesian budget), amazing sea food (raw fish everywhere) and fruits, and spectacular landscape and snorkeling opportunities.

Sunrise over Papeete's harbor at 6 am
 The Catholic cathedral
A busy market on Sunday morning, opening at 5 am (and closing before 9 am so people can go to church then prepare their family lunch)
 Fish, fish, fish!
 A few of the colors you'll see while snorkeling...
 Sugar cane and coconut-base sweets
 One of the rivers flowing from the mountains
 First beach on the way
 The nearby island of Moorea
 Looking back toward Papeete and Moorea
 A church on the Point Venus peninsula
 Point Venus, looking like the end of the Earth

 Lighthouse description (Tahiti's only lighthouse)
 The Monoi Road

 Mama's Beach House


 Tahara'a view point




Bonus track: we hired a cab to visit the impressive Faarumai waterfall and nearby Arahoho blowhole (25 km from Papeete)

Thursday, April 4, 2019

Back to the top, finally: of Black Mountain that is, but still

Wow, I can't believe it has been 8 months since I ran to the top of Black Mountain. July 28 was the last time, that's from my running log (I don't have that powerful detailed memory...). It wasn't the last time I ran some hills but almost. Only two hill runs since then: the following one was the tough TDS (Tour des Ducs de Savoie) around Mont Blanc in Chamonix, the last one was in September when I volunteered at the Stevens Creek 50K aid station and ran 50K up to Skyline. I used to visit Black Mountain if not every month, at least every other month. 120 times since 2002 according to my log again. From Rancho San Antonio, Rhus Ridge, Montebello Road, Stevens Creek Road, Skyline. One of my favorite playground where I learned a lot and got a lot of hill training.

Wow, how fast the body and the muscles in particular can forget about hill running. It felt like I was learning again, quite humbling. It also felt like a completely difference set of muscles were put to use, from the quads to the calves. But also the upper body, the shoulders and neck in particular, as we lean slightly differently when climbing steep sections or flying down others. Even the core is way more engaged. When people ask if I do cross training, I say no, but this felt like almost another sport. Although I've talked about the benefit of variety before, but without being so convinced myself about the difference between flat and hilly running, between trail and road, or even the track, between dirt and asphalt, cement or rubberized surfaces.

Wow, how good it felt to... feel that good pain again coming from a sustained effort. And, in contrast, how good it felt not to feel my gluteus injury as a matter of fact. In the up and down hills that is. Since this pain started right after the Turkey Trot 10K last November, I was hesitant to get back on the hills. I took a few weeks off in December and, because that didn't help at all, decided to go through it, but sticking to flat running for these past three months. While every step has been painful (!), I still feel lucky to have logged than miles 750 miles this quarter, and even raced enough to break a few National age group records. Last Sunday's run started with 2.5 flat miles to get out of Cupertino and to the Stevens Creek Reservoir. The gluteus was yelling at every stride but, to my great surprise, it got quiet as soon as I climbed the dam, wow, what a pleasant discovery. That I don't use it that much on uphills, at least not as much as my quads, whom I forgot existed... As a second great surprise, as I reached the ridge of the dam, I saw Bob flying down Stevens Creek Road. Bob, whom I've run at the track with, was finishing a 20-mile tune-up before Boston where we'll both be at again this year.
Wow, how good it felt to see all the water flowing down to the Stevens Creek Reservoir, which has been full again for several weeks.

What a great rainy season we've had, so much that some people claim victory over the drought. I share the enthusiasm and relief but there is still a long way to make up for all the water we pumped underground, overusing centuries-worth of reserves (I'm not kidding, that's how long it takes to form, as opposed to a few years of our industrial (and agricultural) age and so-called progress, to arm if not deplete). Last Summer, I started writing a post on the poor conditions of our local creeks, spring, and the Waterwheel Trail one in particular, in the wake of the big fires, but didn't finish the story. Again, it felt good to see water flowing in almost every creek last weekend!

A strong Stevens Creek!
 Even the tiny creek across Bellavista Trail resurrected!

Wow, what a difference does that make to run 50 hilly kilometers, compared to 8 flat ultras I've run so far in 2019. For one thing it takes slightly longer time. So much that, in this great piece, Jason Koop advises to track the number of hours you run, not the mileage (thank you to Eric Shranz' Ultramarathon Daily News for the pick). More time, but more pleasure as well, as trail running is so much less boring. While I didn't see much wildlife, beyond a few deer, and there was a bit of fog, the landscape was amazing, everything is so green out there to celebrate Spring!

A bit hazy but still a good aerial view of the Silicon Valley, including our new Cupertino beacon, the extraterrestrial Apple Park.

Wow, after forgetting about this gluteus pain for the 3 hours I spent on Black Mountain, including the 7 miles down Montebello, how disappointing and disturbing it felt to hear it yelling again as soon as I hit the flat asphalt again, with my longer stride. Between the persisting pain and lot of soreness in my legs, my run at the office on Monday was so painful and so slow, I cut it short at 6 miles, and skipped Tuesday. My quads were still sore on Wednesday and I enjoy a few casual miles with out IBM Running group at Silicon Valley Lab. Thankfully that helped losing up these tight quads, enough to pickup the pace and ramp up to 9 miles. (Selfie credit: Jorge CastaƱon.)
Then, on Thursday, a breakthrough, my best training run since the injury, almost not feeling it, so I could run 11 miles slightly harder. Even better on Friday for 15 sub-7 min/mile miles, then a good 15K before getting on a plane again. This time for vacation, more on this in the next posts. It feels good to think that I'm finally getting to the end of this annoying injury, while remaining cautious and not claiming victory yet. The biggest lesson out of this one: the importance of stretching, especially as we age (or mature? ;-).

Hope you experience some breakthroughs with your running and training too, it's so worth the persistence!

PS: a 1-minute replay of last Sunday's run to the top of Black Mountain (twice), thanks to Relive.cc (click on the image, or this link)